Embroidery Library

Primitive Santa Stuffie (In-the-Hoop)

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.


Santa Claus is coming to town! Bring a cozy, classic look to your Christmas decor with this primitive Santa stuffie. Let him play on your tabletops, or add a loop to the top to turn him into an ornament. Just stitch each piece in-the-hoop, then assemble and stuff -- we'll show you how!
 


Project Needs & Notes:


- 1/4 yard of red striped quilter's cotton, linen, or twill (for body)
- 1/4 yard of white sherpa faux fur (for beard)
- Tear-away stabilizer
- Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold's KK100)
- Polyester fiberfill
- Needle for hand sewing
- Glue gun and glue sticks
- White pom-pom (3/4" for large/medium or 1/2" for small)
- 2 buttons (1/2" for large, 1/4" for medium, or 3/8" for small) (optional)

The design featured in this tutorial is:
X13659, Primitive Santa Stuffie (In-the-Hoop)

Finished Sizes:
Large: 3 3/4" wide x 6" tall x 1 3/4" deep
Medium: 2 1/2" wide x 4 1/4" tall x 1 1/2" deep
Small: 1 3/4" wide x 3" tall x 1" deep

Special Note:
Sherpa faux fur is used for the beard. This fabric is very fluffy, and the fluff will stick out outside of the finished border that sews around the edges of the beard. This is intentional, and adds to the rustic charm of the primitive Santa stuffie. For a cleaner look, you could instead use a different soft fabric such as minky or fleece.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

When you download the Primitive Santa Stuffie design, you'll find six files. Two are embroidery files (labeled a and b), and the other 4 are dieline files, marked with the letters DL. Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the right shape and size.

Open the dieline files with embroidery software and print them. If you do not have embroidery software, Wilcom's TrueSizer is a free program to use.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Cut around the front piece paper dieline, and spray the back of it. Then smooth it onto the striped red fabric.

For best results, make sure the stripes are vertical under the paper dieline, and match up the center lines with the grain of the fabric.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

For the sherpa faux fur fabric, smooth the paper dieline onto the back of the fabric.

This will make it easier to cut out the shape and will prevent the adhesive spray from tearing off the fluff off of the front of the fabric.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Cut out the front piece, and remove the paper.


Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Then repeat to cut out all four fabric pieces.


Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer.

Madeira E-Zee Tear 1.5 oz. or Floriani Tearaway Medium are good choices. Those brands are more fibrous, less paper-like, and will tear more cleanly.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Attach the hoop to the machine and load the full embroidery file "a" (not the dieline files).

Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle, rather than an embroidery needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle, so that will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.

Embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be a dieline, or outline stitch. This marks the area on the stabilizer where we'll place the fabric piece.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the back of the front fabric piece with a temporary adhesive, and place it right inside the sewn dieline.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Attach the hoop back onto the machine and continue embroidering the design.

A tack down stitch will sew next. This binds the fabric in place for the remainder of the design.

Then the some of the inner details and the beard dieline will sew.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Watch the color change sheet for a step called "beard tack down", and stop the machine before embroidering that step. Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the back of the beard fabric piece with a temporary adhesive, and place it right inside the sewn dieline.

For best results, spray the back of the back of the sherpa faux fur very very well and press it firmly in place. This will help to prevent the fabric from getting picked up by or caught on the embroidery foot.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Place the hoop back on the machine and continue sewing.

Next, the beard tackdown will sew, followed by more jacket details.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Keep track on your color change sheet, and stop embroidering before sewing the "finishing seam." Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the design.

On the right side of the fabric, spray temporary adhesive around just the edges of the back fabric piece. Then place it right side down onto front piece over the embroidery and beard.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Place it back on the machine, and embroider the final seam.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop the stabilizer and gently tear it away from the edges.

Make sure to leave the tear-away stabilizer on the back of the fabric piece as this will add a little bit of structure to the finished piece.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Locate the top point of the Santa stuffie, and carefully cut a few slits into the seam allowance.

Make sure to not cut into the seam. This will help the point keep its shape when turned.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Then turn the Santa stuffie right side out.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Fold in the raw edges in about 1/4" around the opening of the Santa stuffie. Use a iron to press the folds.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Now that the body of the Santa stuffie (file "a") is finished, it's time to sew the base (file "b").

Hoop another piece of tear-away stabilizer, load the embroidery design, and begin sewing. Follow the color change sheet and add the fabric piece before the tackdown sews.

Finish the embroidery and tear away the excess stabilizer.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Match up the pointed corners of the opening and base piece. Begin to hand sew the satin edge and the folded edge together.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Sew all the way along the front edge, and then continue to sew until you get about halfway on the back edges.

Stopping here leaves a hole for stuffing the Santa stuffie.

Take polyester fiberfill, and stuff the Santa until it is very full. It is important that the Santa stuffie is very firmly stuffed, especially at the base, so that it stands well.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Once finished stuffing, sew the opening closed.

Add more stuffing while sewing the opening smaller to make the base of the Santa stuffie even sturdier.

Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Take a white pom-pom, and hot glue it on the top point to create the poof for the hat.

 Free project instructions to stitch an in-the-hoop primitive Santa stuffie.

Then if desired, sew or glue actual buttons over the embroidered circles for an extra homemade touch.

Multi-piece Applique Coasters (In-the-Hoop)



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Products used in this Project: