Embroidery Library Projects!

From Suzanne: I keep a Color Wheel by my sewing machine. If I want to change colors in an embroidery project, it will help me choose new colors.

From Therese: I often use a double tipped fabric marker when embroidering. One tip is air erase, the other tip is water erase. It seems I was constantly uncapping the wrong tip. To save myself this frustration, I used a permanent marker to color the cap I use the most often. Now, I just glance at the cap to see which tip I want to use.

From Sandra: When using spray adhesive, use some waxed paper on the work surface. This keeps the adhesive from getting on your table or ironing board.

From Shirlene: I use a great tool called "Seam Ripper Clipper" for cutting all those little jump stitches and loose ends from my embroidery. It is angled for ripping the seam without ripping the fabric, when used for a seam ripper. It has a spring action with is design to help reduce hand fatigue, which I need more and more as the years slip away.

From Chrystal: Now that I starch before stitching a t-shirt, I decided to spray my applique pieces. I am now happy with how crisp and clean the applique looks. It's amazing that a little stiffener can make a design look so much better.

From Nancy K.: I recently made several kitchen towels and bathroom hand towels for my daughter's new home. She asked that I center the design on half of the towel instead of the entire towel, that way she can just fold the towel in half and flip it over the towel bar and the pretty embroidery still shows. If the embroidery is on the center of the towel then you need to fold the towel in thirds before you hang it so that the pretty embroidery shows. I now do almost all my towels this way. I find that the towels actually get hung back up rather than 'grace' the floor, counter, chair, edge of the tub, etc.

From Eileen: Since I don't like using spray adhesive in my home, I spray it outside. To keep the "sticky" off my fingers, I have found using a thin plastic food service glove on the hand that holds the piece to be sprayed works great. One can let the adhesive dry and reuse the glove or just toss the glove.

From Ruth C.: I keep a small paring knife, which I purchased at the dollar store, with my scissors. When I have to cut stabilizer, I fold the stabilizer and use the knife to cut it. It saves my scissors for material and gives a straight, even cut to the stabilizer.

From Beverly: When making small lace items such as the earrings, I paint several layers of decoupage medium (mod podge) over the lace, allowing drying time between the layers. This gives your lace a whole new look.

From Nancy K.: I have purchased (home improvement stores carry these) two of the extra small plastic table (just a bit larger than a TV tray). My husband cut a sheet of plywood the same size as the table top and attached it to the top of the table. I then created a pad to fit the table top and a fitted cover (much like a sheet) from some bright fabric and use this as a small ironing board. On the other one, my husband glued some of the rubber shelf gripper to the top and I put a cutting mat on this table. Then I set one to my left and one to my right as I am quilting -- sure saves me from jumping between the cutting board, the ironing board, and the sewing machine!

From Sandra: I bought a white tablecloth at a thrift shop and cut it into 8.5" x 11" size, punched it with my three hole punch, and use it for test sewing. When done I put it into a binder. They could also slide into page protectors, then put into a binder.

From Terry: To keep small squares of Velcro in place and keep loops from catching, position Velcro and place a piece of scotch "magic" tape over it.

From Judy: I copy my purchased designs and attach any suggested projects that go along with it. It helps me to make decisions of how to use the designs.

From Nancy K.: Stitching a name on a hood of a sweatshirt? I stitch names on hoods of many sweatshirts, my daughters, my daughter's friends, etc. Here is my Quick 'N Easy tip: Hoop sticky stabilizer -- 'stick' the hood to the sticky then top with a layer of water-soluble stabilizer. If the seam on the center of the hood is thick, I rub a drop or two of Sewers Aid in the inside seam where I will be stitching and rub a bit on my needle as well and add an extra scrap or two of water soluble stabilizer in the seam area only. Set your machine to the slowest number of stitches per minute if you can and stitch away. Oh, and remember, the top of the letters should be at the finished edge of the hood! Hope this helps!

From Ruth C.: I recently made up a Quilted Tote Bag and to create a unique design, I used one of the trapunto designs in the center block. I used variegated threads and the results were wonderful.

From Bibi: I've always had trouble with the needle threaders that come with machines. Instead, I just use my tried-and-true method of needle threading: Wet the needle instead of the thread and you'll find your thread goes through the needle very easily.

From Nancy: When I download a design and save it, I include the hoop size on the name. Then when I am at the machine and choose a design from the memory stick, I know what size hoop to use.

From Kris: When I test a design and I like the way it turns out, I will sometimes save the design and use it as a patch. I will use Heavy Duty Wonder Under and cut around the design and make a patch, then iron it on the item. You can use this technique for jeans if you do not want to tear the leg open. It should not be a fancy design with lots of cuts and openings.

From Nancy K.: I LOVE to embellish my embroidery with hot-fix crystals! I have found that if I slip a sheet of non-stick tin foil under the layer I am embellishing, I don't have problems with the layers sticking together. Also take a scrap of the tin foil and turn up the edges to make a small 'tray.' You can put the crystals you are working with in this little 'tray' and they won't bounce all over your work surface when tapping them out of the bag. Also, they won't leave a glue mess on your work surface!

From Kris: I often save my test designs and when they turn out good, I donate them to our church quilting group to be used in baby blankets that they make for the needy.

From Peggy: I asked the fabric store for old pattern books. There is valuable info in the back such as size and measuring info. I also like to browse them for ideas.

From Ruth C.: I have learned that by using a skirt hanger and a plastic table cloth with a felt type backing, that I can have a quilt display board that can be used anywhere. I purchased the hanger and the table cloth from the Dollar store and attached the table cloth to the hanger (felt side out). Then, I simply hung it to the top of my door. Bonus you don't need to pin your blocks to the board as they will stick to the felt.

From Cindy: I take a look at the latest Stitchers' Showcase everyday. And if I like it, I can take advantage of the sale that day. It is also a great place to see new ideas.

From Therese: I often sew my designs without using the given colors of thread. Here's an easy foolproof way to see if your design will turn out A+. When choosing the thread colors, I put all the threads together in a group before I line them up in the proper order to sew. If any of my colors clash, it is immediately visible, and I replace that color with another one that harmonizes with the rest of the threads. The end product is then a delight to my eyes.

From Marie: I always have a freestanding lace project or something that requires no thread changes sewing out while I am busy sewing or cutting a quilt top. I learned many years ago the value of multi-tasking and use the skill to keep both my sewing machines busy.

From Dexter: When making an applique design, I stitch out the template (dieline) onto the fabric that I am going to cut for the design. Then, I remove and cut on the stitching line! Perfect applique pieces every time.

From Joyce: I always keep a large strip of wax paper folded to about a 6" x 6" square on the end of my "ever standing ironing board" in my sewing room. When my iron refuses to glide smoothly, I just simply run the iron back and forth a couple times over the wax paper. When the paper starts to loose it's wax, I simply unfold and refold to another area. The wax paper lasts a long time.

From Therese: I don't always stay in the same room when I'm embroidering. As a consequence of this, I have bobbins with little amounts of thread left on them. I don't want the thread to run out while I'm not there, so I change the bobbin early. I store these in a small tub. When I have quite a few collected, I have a BOBBIN DAY when I sew many small designs onto a large hoop. I keep sewing designs until many or most of the bobbins are used up. I then store these felt (or any other fabric) pages. When I need a quick gift, I cut the small designs out of the felt into round or ovals or squares, and use them to make cards.

From Nancy: My husband and I own a lawn maintenance company - so you can imagine his clothes at the end of a day. He somehow manages to get holes in everything (pants, shirts, etc.). To save his clothes, I find a design large enough to cover the hole. Most of the times, it is a bug design - bugs look GREAT on the finished item.

From Christine: I do quite a bit of heirloom sewing and work with small pieces of lace and fabric. It is difficult at times to keep the pieces straight, and feeding the pieces with your fingers can be unsafe. So I use wooden kabob sticks to feed the fabric or lace. And if the needle accidentally hits the stick, the stick will break, not the needle - and your fingers are safe!

From Jacy: I embroider on artist's canvas and then frame some of my "creations." I pre-shrink the canvas by steaming heavily with a steam iron and then embroider after it is dry. This type of canvas also makes great, and firm, bookmarks and coasters.

From Ruth C.: For all the quilters out there who are looking for a way to keep their rulers and templates secure when cutting, I use Dry Line, a product from Liquid Paper. Buy the one that is yellow and use it on the backs of templates and rulers. It creates a non-skid backing.

From Sharon: As a new member to Embroidery Library, I have purchased several designs. But I found it difficult to remember what designs were purchased without going to the website each time. Now I have a 3-inch binder with my order history, pictures and design information at my fingertips. I absolutely love your project ideas and videos. Your website is the best!

From Sharon: I sew in the dining room and drive a school bus doing three runs a day. To limit the mess and save time when I work on the in-the-hoop projects, I keep a pre-cut interface, fabric and stabilizer in a box near the machine. I cut them all at once and in advance with the rolling cutter and mat. This way when I only have an hour between runs, I am ready to go. I like to have bookmarks and coasters ready to go for gifts anytime.

From Tonya: Need a way to hold hems in place when hemming? Just use a metal binder clip. Turn the hem up and clip, then move the clip as you hem. These clips can be found at Wal-Mart or office supply stores.

From Debbie: Keep a photo journal of projects you've made to give away or keep. It's fun to note who you gave it to, what occasion and when.

From Christine: When embroidering totes and items that are not easily laid flat, I use large hair clips. I roll the item to keep the embroidery area clear and clip the rolled fabric onto the embroidery hoop. I make sure that the clip will clear as the item moves through the embroidery process.

From Lenore: Instead of printing dielines on paper, I purchased a package of vellum sheets from my local craft store. They hold up better than paper, and I keep them in a binder with my embroidery designs.

From Terri: I use my husband's old T-shirts to try out designs I digitize, so I don't ruin the "good" shirts!

From Sharon: I just tried sharpening my pinking shears using aluminum foil folded in half, then folded in half again. Cutting through it with the pinking shears really works. This is great for any scissors, and it worked perfectly for my pinking shears.

From Marlene: If you have disappearing pen marks that disappear before your project is complete, fret no more! Just stick some Scotch Magic Tape over the mark and you are in business again. As long as air or moisture can't get to the mark, it will stay in place.

From Ruth C.: After I have cut out and used a dieline pattern, I file it away for future use. I purchased an accordion style file folder measuring 10 1/2" X 5 1/2". These are available at office supply shops, but I purchased mine from our local dollar store. It works great and you can name the files for easy reference. Saves time and paper!

From Nancy K.: I was just at the discount store and picked up a package of 36 different permanent marking pens! I came home and immediately took this to my sewing room. I use marking pens to touch up stitching boo-boos or fix edges of an in the hoop project that has some pokies sticking out. Now I have 36 colors to use instead of the 6 I had before! Best investment I've made in a long time!

From Marilyn: I like to print out the pages of information that comes with each design (picture and colors) and keep them in a spiral notebook with any information I would like to keep about each one.

From Kathy: Join your scraps of Ultra Solvy water-soluble stabilizers by placing them on a flat surface, using a small sponge-type paint brush with a little water on it, go down the side of the Solvy and put another scrap on top of it at about 1/2 inch along the edge. Press down with your finger and let it dry. No worries about thread lines joining the Solvy. You can use all your scraps this way, joining them in different directions if necessary.

From Charlene: You can buy inexpensive fabric shower curtains on clearance or at the local dollar store. Buy the ones that are a solid color and add your own embroidery designs to match your bathroom's theme or make a different one for each season. It's a very inexpensive way to change the look of your bathroom. Also, be sure to use a vinyl liner to keep your masterpiece from getting wet.

From Judy: I have looked for and purchased many types of embroidery scissors. Some inexpensive and some very expensive. Finally, I have come across the very best ones...cuticle scissors! They have a fine enough tip, are very sharp, and the price is great. I like the Lacrosse brand best!

From Therese: I often iron my fabric before the air erase marker is completely gone. Sometimes I find light grey marks that don't seem to come out, even after I've wet the fabric. I've come across a really neat trick that seems to work for me every time, so far. Just saturate the item with rubbing alcohol. This seems to reactivate the ink in the air erase marker. By the time the alcohol dries, the grey marks are gone. If you have a stubborn mark, just repeat the process until it's gone.

From Christine: Don't throw away your scrap pieces of tear-away and cut-away stabilizer. I use the tear-away as support when I machine sew buttons onto fine fabric. It helps support the stitches when the button is being sewed on. I just gently tear off the excess so there is no residual to show through the fabric. I use the cutaway on medium to heavy weight fabric when sewing buttons, and then I just trim the excess down to the size of the button. I also use it on the wrong side when sewing on patch pockets and need to reinforce the top of the pocket. This supports the stitches and if the pocket is pulled on with little hands this keeps the threads from making a hole in the fabric.

From Patty: Take a plain old bobby pin and open it until it looks like an L . Place it in the needle guide to find the center of your sewing area in the hoop. It helps me find the marked place faster, no guessing.

From Dexter: I print out the design and write the 'Thread Color Numbers' for the threads that I used when stitching the design. I have so many threads of similar colors, so writing down the numbers really helps when I want the same results with the design.

From NiftySewer: After reading most of the tips submitted, I realized that maybe some folks don't realize how to use the order history to find previously purchased designs. It's great! Just go to the order history page and click the search order history link. Type in subject (i.e. flowers) and a list of all the purchased designs and order numbers comes up. It's fantastic - no looking thru pages!

From Mary: I find it helpful to print out a picture of my design, when incorporating more than one embroidery. It really helps with placement.

From Nancy: Having recently bought a felting machine. I love setting aside all those thread ends from sewing and quilting to use when I felt. It's great fun to see all the different thread colors blend into my projects.

Tip from Marlene: When you want to stuff a pillow with foam, just put the foam in a plastic air tight bag, and take the vacuum hose and suck all the air out. The pillow foam shrinks so you can now insert it into the cover or casing. After the bag with the foam is inside the cover, just tear the plastic out so the foam swells up again to shape the pillow. I use long cleaner bags, tie a knot in one end and suck the air out the other end. This is useful especially if you have a tight cover to fill. No more strain on the zipper.

Tip from Patty: I recently bought a digital picture frame and have put all my pictures of items I've made to display at craft shows. I am able to run it through my laptop's battery so I can have it running whenever I need it. It gives the customers an idea of what projects I can do and saves me from having to put photos in an album and carry it around. I've also made pictures of the different fonts I have so customers can see close up what they will look like when placing an order. And when I no longer make a certain item, I just delete that picture and replace it with a new one.

Tip from Christine: After I finish an embroidery, I press it. I have found that if I place a bath towel folded into 4 layers under the embroidery and press with steam, this gets out any wrinkles. I press on the wrong side first, and then the right side. I do not move the iron back and forth. I pick up the iron and place it down, steam. If you are using a sticky or WSS this must be removed according to manufactures directions before pressing.

Tip from Jackie: I used the in-the-hoop sleeping mask project to make a mask for digital clocks. If you use a light weight material, it will dull the light a bit or create the full project for complete block-out.

Tip from Christine: I carry a small roll of double sided, clear tape. This comes in handy if I need to make a quick repair of a hem.

Tip from Pat: I keep a composition book by my embroidery machine and when starting a new project, I list the project with a brief description on a new sheet of paper. Then, I list all the colors and numbers of thread I need. If I have to make a substitution, I make a note of the new number. I line my thread up on my thread spindles in the order needed. As I finish each color, I check it off and make notes about colors I don't particular like. When I finish a project, I have all the info in my book to refer back to in the event I need it. I don't have to try to remember what I did and what my colors were. It works great!

Tip from Christine: After I have finished an embroidery, I press it. I have found that if I place a bath towel folded into 4 layers under the embroidery and press with steam, this gets out any wrinkles. I press on the wrong side first, and then on the right side. I do not move the iron back and forth; I pick up the iron and place it down, and then steam. If you are using a sticky or WSS this must be removed according to manufactures directions before pressing.

Tip from Marilyn: To get rid of water-soluble stabilizer on thick towels, I just wet my fingers in a glass of water, and dab the towels. Then, I let them air dry and I don't have to wash the "gift" towels.

Tip from Christine: When I use a pattern for a garment, I do not cut the original pattern. I take the time and trace the size I need onto doctor's exam table paper (you can get this from a medical supply store). I now have a pattern I can alter without damaging the original.

Tip from Elise: When making towel toppers, snap a shower curtain ring behind the button hole. It works faster than snaps. Just fold your towel over ring! It's easy!

Tip from Patricia L.: When making free standing lace ornaments, wash away all the stabilizer, let dry, press (if needed), and spray with a clear top coat finish. Try to get one that is UV resistant. This makes the ornament stiff, and it can be rinsed off if it becomes dusty over time.

Tip from Becky: When prewashing fabric to make quilts, I put them in lingerie bags and into the washer and dryer. It keeps them from getting tangled if the material frays.

Tip from Judy: I take digital photos of my quilts and embroidery projects. I keep them in a journal with detailed notes such as colors, fabrics, threads and to whom I gave the item, in case I want to make a coordinating item at a later date. It also helps me to make sure siblings get similar items!

Tip from Dexter: When making an applique design, I stitch out the template (dieline) onto the fabric that I am going to cut for the design. Then I remove and cut on the stitching line! Perfect applique pieces every time!

Tip from Marlene: If you've ever gotten caught not having the right stabilizer for the fabric, or just needed a little bit of stiffness to keep the puckers at a minimum, try using starch (powder). You can make it stronger or thicker than normal when you mix it up and brush it on the back of the fabric where the design will be and let it dry. If it's not stiff enough, repeat till you have a nice stiff piece of fabric you can embroider on. If you're in a hurry, use a hair dryer to dry it. You can get it as stiff as a board. It's great for lightweight material (and even some sheer fabrics!) because it will wash out when you finish the design.

Tip from Christine: I carry a few quilters safety pins with me at all times and in each of my cars. If someone pops a button, I can easily pin the button to the hem of the garment. That way, I don't have to go on a treasure hunt looking for the button to sew back on. It's already on the garment ready to be repaired.

Tip from Annabell: I needed to embroider several jar toppers for a friend's jelly-making project. Rather than cut separate pieces for each topper, I drew the circles on a width of fabric, then marked the centers and hooped and embroidered each of the designs before cutting the toppers out. I saved enough fabric to make two extra toppers out of each width!

Tip from Patricia L.: After making purchase at Embroidery Library, I take the designs into an embroidery program, such as Embird, Viking, etc. and print out a page of small thumbnail pictures. I label this with the date and order number. If a design file becomes damaged while editing or if you lose a design, you will have a way to know which order to look in for this design. I have spent a lot of time looking for a design before I started doing this.

Tip from Cynthia: Save these great tips!!!

Tip from Sadie: To hide any left over fuzzies on an in-the-hoop project, I color the edges with a magic marker. It works great!

Tip from Helene: When someone in the family gets a stain on their clothing that won't wash out, I embroider a design over it large enough to cover the spot. Works great!

Tip from Diane: My husband suggested this - We all save those nice plastic zipper bags from sheets, comforters, etc. Use them to corral projects in progress. That way, you won't lose pieces if you temporarily put them aside.

Tip from Therese: When I pull up the file I'm going to sew on my sewing machine, I make sure to register the amount of time a design will take onto my design information sheets. These are my color charts, templates, etc. that I keep in sheet protectors in a three ring binder. Then, when I want to do some embroidering but have a time limit, the amount of time required is easy to see.

Tip from Ruth: If you find your back getting sore while sitting at your embroidery machine, try using an office chair. Raise it up about 3 inches in order to be looking down into the hoop. It has sure saved my back!

Tip from Therese: Whenever I print out a template that I know I'm going to use repeatedly, I place a small piece of tape over the front and back center point to reinforce the area to prevent any distortion. That way, I can reuse the template knowing that the center is completely accurate.

Tip from Mindy: I use double-sided tape to hold things in place on the fabric while I stitch them. I keep a roll with my sewing supplies. I have used the tape to hold Velcro, pockets, and zippers in place.

Tip from Therese: I was going to make several coasters, and I wanted to save time, ink, and paper. So I printed the dieline on a piece of cardstock, covered the circle front and back with clear contact paper, and used it over and over again. I then stored this template in the sheet protector that holds my design printout and thread chart. Now it's ready for next time!

Tip from Loni: Heres a tip I came up with and use for my cardstock embroidery. Our local print shop carries 64# weight paper, which I have to use for embroidering on greeting cards. I get perfect design registration on this paper by first fusing Floriani Fusible No Show Poly Mesh Cutaway Stabilizer to the back side of the card. Then, I follow the steps in Kennys project directions for Embroidery on Cardstock, but add 1 inch wide blue painters tape to securely hold the card edges to the hooped stabilizer. To me, the beautiful finished project is worth this extra effort.

Tip from Robin: When the new 17 cent designs come out, I immediately put them in my shopping cart. There is nothing worse than seeing "Transaction Complete," and then remembering you didn't order the special designs. No more missed bargains!

Tip from Laura: If you find a hole in your embroidered piece, take the hoop off the machine (do not unhoop), and place an additional piece of fabric under the hole using adhesive spray to hold in place. Put the hoop back on the machine and back up your stitches to go over the area with the embroidered design again. You will never know there was a hole there.

Tip from Sheila: Whenever I download a design from Embroidery Library, I immediately print a copy of the stitch out and place it in a notebook of designs. That way, I don't forget which ones I have and the information is right there when I have time to stitch.

Tip from Christine: When I complete a project, I take a picture and write down any notes I need to make about the project and place them into a clear page protector. I then put this into a notebook. Now I have a reference for the future and I don't have to worry about having to calculate the fabric needed, or try to remember if I had to make changes for that project.

Tip from Marlene: Keep track of your scissors. Crochet a long chain to hang around your neck and attach your scissors. That way, they are always right where you want them. Also, make sure the chain is long enough to reach clipping threads when a design is still hooped on the machine. If you're doing hand sewing put your spool of thread on the chain with the scissors. Now you have both real handy.

Tip from Linda: When using your hot glue gun for embellishing quilts, use a hot hair dryer to whisk away the cob-web drippings, while moving from one place to another.

From Marie: Use a stain spot remover pen (such as Tide-To-Go) to remove markings from fabrics when sewing or embroidering. It erases the markings in a flash and they do not return. I have tried it on several brands of marking pencils.

Tip from Mary: I use chalk instead of markers to mark fabrics. It rubs right off when I am finished. I keep a box of colored chalk with my embroidery supplies.

Tip from Christine: Even for an experienced sewer, it can be difficult at times telling the difference between the right and wrong side of some fabrics, trims, and ribbon. I use dot stickers, you can get at any office supply store. I use a bright orange color and put the dot on the right side of the fabric. When cutting out a pattern piece, I place the dot on each piece before cutting it out. This has saved me many hours of ripping out a seam.

Tip from Pat H.: If a design outline doesn't match up perfectly with the design, don't think it's ruined. Use fabric markers to fill in the gap between the outline and the design. These permanent markers come in assorted colors, and have a fine tip so it's easy to color in the smallest gap. If you don't have the exact color, use a color that will look like shading or blends into the design. The key is you're coloring the background fabric so then you won't see that gap at all.

Tip from Lisa: To repair a hole in our screen, I made 2 refrigerator magnets and placed one on each side of a hole, back to back. No more bugs! Depending on the shape, you may have to mirror image one of them. And remember, if there is writing on the design, it will come out backwards so you will need to use your software.

Tip from Helene: When someone in the family gets a stain on their clothing that won't wash out, I embroider a design over it big enough to cover it up.

Tip from Carol: When doing practice sew outs on towels, I use a test towel that will have 10 different embroidery designs or more on it. I throw it in the wash so I can monitor what they look like.

Tip from Doreen: When using a design that requires same color in the bobbin thread as well as the top thread, try using a darker shade of the same color in the bobbin - an interesting change of hue will be discovered!

Tip from Marilyn: Use iron-on fleece on the backing material for a door hanger. It gives just the right amount of body when using a lightweight material.

Tip from Doreen: When using a design that requires same color in the bobbin as well as the top thread, try using a darker shade of the same color in the bobbin. An interesting change of hue is discovered!

Tip from Lisa: If you find your needle gumming up due to spray adhesive or tackle twill, I recommend sliding a piece of wax paper under your project. This also works well on some of the duffle bags with the heavy plastic coatings on them, as well as leather.

Tip fromPenny: A clothes steamer quickly removes water-soluble topping when you don't have time to wash the item.

Tip from Rebecca: To trim those little threads you can't get close to, use a pair of fingernail clippers. You can cut the thread close and they're easy to use on the smallest piece of thread.

Tip from Therese: I save my thin soap ends to use for marking my material. It shows up great, and when I'm done, all I have to do is iron and the marks are gone.

Tip from Gail: Spray "Magic Sizing" on the back of your finished design and press with a steam iron. It really helps to iron out any wrinkles that occur after removing the embroidery from the hoop.

Tip from Charlene: When putting applique designs on childrens clothing, consider adding coordinating or matching roll-up leg or sleeve cuffs to the garment. Not only does it make a cute custom-made look, the added fabric also makes the garment wear longer as you can unroll the cuffs as the child grows.

Tip from Pat: I purchased a collapsible sweater drying rack so when I make freestanding lace designs, I just lay the lace out on it and it dries flat and on both sides.

Tip from Terri W.: I have added a couple of steps to the photo frames that I thought that I would let you know about. I really enjoy sewing these out especially for my grandchildren. Before I sew the inner outline I add a piece of vinyl to these so that it looks like there is a piece of glass. Then I also add a piece of ribbon to the edges so that it will be able to hang instead of putting a magnet on the back.

Tip from Loretta L.: Suede paper works extremely well for cardstock designs. It has a fabric like texture and comes in a variety of colors. The embroidery comes out much better and the needle does not make large holes as with regular cardstock. Give it a try. You can find it at a rubber stamp or scrap booking store.

Tip from Patricia L.: I always use a wooden skewer when holding fabric in place while it is being embroidered. If you should hit the skewer while sewing, it will not damage your machine. If you hit a metal item, you can really damage your machine.

Tip from Dexter D.: I have a great idea for the Coat Hanger Covers project. I put a hidden zipper in the bottom seam. Then I can store accessories (or cash for emergency uses). When a garment is on the hanger no one would ever think to look there for hidden items. Oops! Now I've given away my secrets!

Tip from Vickie A.: For clean edges on In-the-Hoop projects, cut out fabric pieces, and then use an anti-fraying liquid on the outer edges of the design. Let the liquid dry and then stitch out the design. No more fuzzies or peek-a-boos.

Tip from Marilyn.: I use iron-on fleece on the backing material for a door hanger. It gives just the right amount of body when using a lightweight material.

Tip from Jan S.: You can mark your ruler with dry-erase markers. This saves time because you do not have to keep finding the same measurement again. When you are through with the project, just wipe the ruler off with a dry cloth.

Tip from Patricia L.: When embroidering a design that has small features such as facial features, place a piece of Solvy on top just before you stitch the features. It will be much easier to clip the small jump stitches between the eyes and nose without damaging the face, etc.

Tip from Patricia L.: Use children's wash away markers to mark your fabric. They come in 8 colors and work very well to mark your center point for embroidery. They work on most fabrics. PLEASE! Check that it will wash out of your fabric first before using.

Tip from Ruth C.: When I want to personalize my projects with a label, instead of purchasing the expensive labels, I use white iron on Mending Tape. You can either write on them with a fabric pen or embroider on them. It works great!

Tip from Charlene G.: To add an interesting 'shading' to a design I use two contrasting threads together instead of just one thread at a time (the original color and a match in a different shade). Just make sure to use a needle with an eye large enough for two threads to slide easily, then thread both through the same needle eye (one at a time is usually easiest). Use a thread stand for the other thread color if your machine only has one spool holder. Remember to reduce the speed of your machine to minimum. This technique does not work well in small areas or with very dense embroidery.

On an embroidery discussion list at the Yahoo.com groups, one member was having trouble with designs sections not aligning. Ruthe B. offered this advice:

I too had a problem with my 7570 machine and decided to check out the embroidery 
unit my self. I know that I am not supposed to do things like that, but I am a maverick. 
I found that the bars the unit slides on were coated with old oil and much lint and dust.
When I cleaned them with WD-40, wiped them dry, and reassembled the unit, my 
problems went away.

Tip from Joyce: To help get the design on your project in the correct place, I use a air erasable pen to mark the exact spot. The marks just disappear over time. No more misplaced designs.

Tip from Maryliz L.: When I have to fill a bobbin to match the top thread, and there is thread left on the bobbin, I put the spool of thread and the bobbin in a small resealable plastic bag. The next time I need that color, the bobbin and the thread are ready to go. These plastic bags are available in any dollar store.

Tip from Barbara R.: In order to keep my hoops clean when applying spray adhesive, I bought a child's tin bucket beach toy and cut out the bottom with a can opener. I put the bucket onto the hooped fabric and spray into the bucket. The top of the bucket is wider, so I can use whichever side (top or bottom of bucket) against the fabric that will accommodate the hoop I am using.

Tip from Kim H.: I never use a water soluble topping when embroidering on thick and thirsty bath towels or nice velour golf towels. It washes out and the terry cloth will show through your design. Instead, I use 'dry cover' (a permanent plastic by Hoop it All). Also, be sure to use cutaway, because tear-away does not give enough stability to a heavy towel. Years from now you will be happy you took the extra measures (and expense) with your towel projects.

Tip from Patricia L.: When embroidering on towels or anything with a nap, use clear heat away stabilizer on top of your towel rather than a wash-away stabilizer. It is easy to remove what ever does not tear off from around the design with a warm iron, but the important thing is that the stabilizer remains behind the design when the towel is washed. No little loops showing through after a few washings as with wash-away stabilizer.

Tip from Lou J.: If you are having difficulty threading a needle, moisten the needle instead of the thread. The needle then acts like a magnet for the thread.

Tip from Thelma B.: Our Project Linus group puts all our thread and fabric scraps into unused empty pillow cases (or make our own). When they are partially filled, we sew them shut and give to vets or humane society for pet beds. We call it our "Snoopy Division."

Tip from Donna S.: I coat my embroidery needle with liquid silicone (applying it with a tissue) when using adhesive stabilizer. Repeat often when doing a lot of embroidery. It works like a charm! Also, make sure you clean the bobbin hook to get the adhesive goo off.

Tip from Joyce P.: I use the leftover cutaway stabilizer from my gift tag project as a "template" for spraying adhesive for the next tag. The hole from the tag is the perfect size, my hoop is protected from overspray, and I get a little more use from the stabilizer.

Tip from Loreen C.: I use a Luma Tweeze (a tweezers with built in light) to get help cut my jump threads and also to clean out the sewing machine. It works great with the built in light and magnifier.

Tip from Patricia L.: If you have a very slippery fabric that does not seem to stay in place, even when you baste in the hoop, sew lines across the area where the design will be with wash-away thread. It holds everything in place and is easily washed away afterwards.

Tip from Mary S.: When I applique, I always sew out the die line on some cut away and turn over and trace the back onto Wonder Under and then iron on fabric. Cut it out and it is ready to go with the perfect shape I need, and I do not have to trim around the fabric.

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