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Stabilizer & Fabric Matching Gui
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Stabilizer & Fabric Matching Guide |
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This stabilizer and fabric matching
guide will help you make the right stabilizer choice based on the
weight, quality, and type of fabric that you are using.
When fabric is produced, manufacturers don't anticipate that
anything will be added to it. When we're adding the weight and
tension of thread and stitches to fabric, that fabric needs to be
made stronger and more "stable" with stabilizer. If the fabric isn't
stabilized appropriately, you can experience many headaches, such
as poor registration, design segments not lining up, density
problems, puckering, gapping, and more.
There are a few rules that can be summarized here: The heavier the
fabric you have, the lighter the stabilizer you need. The weaker/lighter
the fabric you have, the heavier stabilizer the you need. One layer of
stabilizer is appropriate for 99.9% of projects, and two pieces of tear-away stabilizer is not a good choice when the fabric is best
served by one piece of cutaway.
If you are sewing on a flimsy fabric with a stabilizer that is too
weak, you'll see gapping, poor registration, puckering, and other
embroidery "nightmares." Conversely, if you are sewing on a
heavy fabric with heavy stabilizer, the result will be bulky, and
you're making the machine and needle work harder than what it needs
to.
Avoid embroidery headaches -- choose the right stabilizer every time
with this guide! |
|
Type |
Fabric |
Quality |
Stabilizer
Choice |
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Cotton |
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Canvas |
Durable, heavy, coarse |
Tear-away; if heavy canvas, no stabilizer necessary
If cap, and cap has buckram, then no stabilizer necessary
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Corduroy |
Heavy, textured, ribbed, tight weave |
Tear-away if heavy; cut-away if lightweight; heat-dissipating to avoid wetting fabric |
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Denim |
Heavy, strong, smooth, tight weave |
tear-away; if heavy denim no stabilizer necessary |
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Drill |
Strong, tightly woven, used in suits, pants, gloves |
Tear-away |
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Duck |
Heavy, tightly woven. Used in awnings, tents, clothing, tote bags |
Tear-away if thicker, cut-away if thinner, no backing necessary if very thick |
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Flannel |
Woven, nap on one or both sides |
Cut-away |
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Gauze |
Sheer, loosely woven, stretchy |
Cut-away, with spray adhesive
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Gingham |
Light-weight, woven knit |
Cut-away |
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Muslin |
Woven, coarse |
Cut-away with adhesive, or sticky back |
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Organdy |
Thin, slippery |
Cut-away with adhesive |
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Percale |
Closely woven, light weight |
Cut-away |
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Pique (golf shirt) |
Stretchy, woven, porous knit |
Cut-away, topping optional |
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Poplin |
Woven, twill |
Cut-away, possibly tear-away depending on weight |
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Sateen |
Cotton fabric with a satin weave |
Cut-away |
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Seersucker |
Lightweight cotton, textured, bumpy |
Cut-away with adhesive |
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Sweater (light-weight) |
Smooth, stretchy |
Cut-away with adhesive |
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Sweater (heavy-weight) |
Thick, stretchy |
Cut-away with adhesive |
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Sweatshirt |
Smooth, stretchy |
Cut-away |
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T-shirt |
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Cut-away or tear-away depending on quality |
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Terrycloth |
Looped fabric, high pile |
Cutaway or tear-away, topping |
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Velveteen |
Cotton fabric with velvet-like pile |
Sticky-back
Cutaway |
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Wool (Alpaca, Mohair, Angora, Camel, Cashmere, Vicuna) |
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Broadcloth |
Loose weave, sturdy |
cut-away |
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Felt |
Lightweight, entangled not woven |
cut-away |
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Flannel |
Soft, lightweight, nap on one or both sides |
cut-away |
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Gabardine |
Tightly woven twill, smooth |
cut-away |
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Herringbone |
Tightly woven twill, textured |
cut-away |
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Jersey |
Knit, lightweight |
cut-away |
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Merino |
Soft, fine, smooth |
cut-away |
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Oatmeal |
Durable, textured, lightweight, soft |
cut-away |
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Sharkskin |
Woven, shiny, smooth |
cut-away |
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Tweed |
Woven, textured, rough and flexible |
cut-away |
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Silk (strongest natural fiber, oldest textile, fibers harvested from cocoon of silkworm) |
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Brocade |
Woven, usually with manufactured/man-made fibers |
tear-away |
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Chiffon |
Transparent, lightweight, thin |
tear-away |
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Dupioni |
Lightweight, uneven threads result in “raw” appearance |
tear-away |
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Organza |
Sheer, lightweight, thin |
tear-away, light spray adhesive if necessary |
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Broadcloth |
Lightweight, sturdy, crisp |
cut-away |
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Linen |
“Raw” appearance |
cut-away with spray adhesive or sticky-back |
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Satin |
Satin weave on one side |
cut-away with spray adhesive or sticky-back |
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Linen (from flax, strong, 2-3 times the strength of cotton, sturdy, smooth, lint-free) |
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Butcher’s Linen |
Sturdy, heavy, used for sturdy clothing (aprons) and can be used as interfacing |
cut-away |
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Damask |
Patterned weave |
cut-away |
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Venise |
Thin damask, patterned |
cut-away |
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Manufactured/Man-Made |
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Acetate |
Lightweight, resilient |
cut-away |
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Acrylic |
Lightweight, thin |
cut-away |
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Polar Fleece |
Lightweight, breathable polyester |
cut-away |
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Nylon |
Strong, elastic, smooth |
cut-away, with spray adhesive or sticky-back |
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Polyester |
Strong, stretchy |
cut-away, with spray adhesive or sticky-back |
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Rayon |
Strong, soft, silky, lightweight |
tear-away |
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Spandex |
Elastic, stretchy, used in exercise clothing, hosiery |
cut-away, with spray adhesive or sticky-back |
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Other |
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Leather |
Durable, smooth, strong |
cut-away for thinner, like lambskin; tearaway for thicker, like cowhide |
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Suede |
Smooth, durable, low nap, possible texture, possible stretch |
cut-away for thinner; tear-away for thicker, |
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Velvet |
Smooth, nap of varying heights, possible stretch |
Sticky-back, heat-dissipating to avoid wetting fabric |
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