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Fabrics 101: Embroidering on Chiffon
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Fabrics 101: Embroidering
on
Chiffon
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Proms, graduations, weddings
-- many formal occasions
take place in the warmer
months when lightweight
fabrics such as chiffon are
part of the fashion scene.
Chiffon is a thin,
sheer fabric made from
cotton, silk, or polyester. It
is most commonly used as an
overlay to gowns and formal
evening wear to give an elegant
and floating appearance.
Chiffon is also used in
summery scarves - for a
dresser, table, and your
body! |
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Chiffon is a
lightweight, sheer fabric that has
beautiful drapes and folds |
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As I
mentioned earlier, chiffon
is made from cotton, silk,
or polyester. I tested
designs on polyester chiffon as it
is the common choice for
most garments, and easier to
find than the cotton or silk
varieties. Although
chiffon is a lightweight,
sheer fabric, the weave of
the fabric gives it a
slightly rough feel. It is
very see-through and has a
little bit of stretch to it. |
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Because chiffon is so
transparent, I wanted to use
a water-soluble stabilizer
so that it would be entirely
removed after stitching. I
tested with Sulky Ultra
Solvy. You can certainly use
tear-away or cutaway
stabilizers, but they'll be
visible from the front side
of your stitchout.
Chiffon is slippery, so it
was important for me to get
a nice tight bond
between the fabric and
stabilizer. I sprayed the
stabilizer with
a bit of temporary adhesive
(KK100 - not too much, or
the water-soluble stabilizer
dissolves), then smoothed the
fabric on top. |
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Hoop chiffon tightly with water soluble
stabilizer and just a bit of
temporary adhesive |
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To begin,
I selected an open and
light
Swallow design. This
design is composed entirely
of satin stitches, so it was
a good way to begin my test.
Generally satin stitches are
heavier than other types, so
any tendency toward
puckering or dimpling will
be evident right away.
The result was great! The
stitches are clean and
crisp, and there is no
shifting or gapping. |
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A design without large fill areas
works best on chiffon |
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After I finished
stitching, I soaked the chiffon
in warm water for 10-15
minutes until the
stabilizer dissolved. Check
your water-soluble
stabilizer's packaging,
instructions may vary.
(Please note: if you are
using silk chiffon, the care
instructions are generally
dry clean only.)
I blotted the fabric dry,
then left it to air dry
completely. It was a bit
rumpled, so I pressed it
with a pressing cloth on a
low setting.
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Next I tested a design with
a blend of satin and running
stitches.
I stitched the
Avant Garden Flower 6 design
onto the chiffon.
The results are perfect.
Vintage designs, Redwork,
toile - most designs that
you find in the
Quick Stitch category -
will work well on chiffon.
Avoid designs that have
fills, or anything complex
with layering or shading.
Those types of designs put
too much stress on the
chiffon, as you will soon
see. |
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Lighter and
more open designs are the best
choice for chiffon |
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Next, I selected two
different styles -- one
light, and one heavy. The
results are shown below.
You can see that the
light-stitching
Golden Wattle design
(below, left)
allows the chiffon to drape
and move naturally, while
the more stitch-filled
Tantalizing Tulip Square
design (below, right) has a heavy
appearance, and actually
prevents the fabric from
floating. |
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The tulip design has a solid
fill, and it's just too
heavy for the light and
delicate chiffon. You can
see puckering of the fabric
around the edge of the satin
stitch border. Conversely,
the light-and-breezy wattle
stitchout on the left has no
puckering.
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In addition to poor draping,
the stitchout also has
shifting and gapping in the
results. The needle
perforations caused the
water-soluble stabilizer to
disintegrate, leaving
nothing behind to prevent
the shifting of the fabric
fibers.
As a result, sections of the
design don't line up where
they should. It's most
noticeable along the left
side of the frame.
When working with a design
that has a solid fill,
cutaway stabilizer works
best - so using a cutaway
stabilizer would resolve
this issue. But then the
stabilizer would show
through the chiffon; a bit
of a Catch-22. To avoid this
problem, choose simple,
light, open, and airy
designs. |
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A solid
fill design needs cutaway stabilizer,
but that will show through chiffon |
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It's the usual practice
to wash fabric to preshrink
it before embroidering on
it, but I didn't find that
necessary with chiffon, as
it won't shrink much.
After embroidering on
chiffon, you can wash it
with a gentle cycle.
However, try not to toss the
item in with jeans or
hoodies, to avoid snagging
the fibers on zippers, or
wearing down the sheen.
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Stitching tips for chiffon:
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Needle |
75/11
sharp needle; an embroidery needle
may also be used |
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Stabilizer |
Water-soluble (Vilene or Sulky Ultra
Solvy) |
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Design
Choice |
Open, airy,
and light. |
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