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Fabrics 101: Embroidering on Charmeuse
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Fabrics 101: Embroidering on
Charmeuse
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Charmeuse is a lightweight
woven fabric and is used
most often in garments. That
silky-feeling lingerie that
isn't made of silk? It's
charmeuse. Evening gowns and
fancy blouses without the
heavy price tag and static
cling? Charmeuse. Jacket and
suit lining? You guessed it:
Charmeuse.
Originally charmeuse was a
fine and expensive silk. But
today it's more common to
find charmeuse that is 100%
polyester. It brings a
little bling to your
projects too; charmeuse has
a sparkle and shimmer in its
polyester fibers. |
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Originally
charmeuse was made of silk fibers;
today it's most commonly 100% polyester. |
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Charmeuse has earned a
reputation in the stitching
world as being a fickle
little fabric. Some
seamstresses will steer
beginners toward other
fabrics until they're more
experienced. It's a bit
slippery to work with, it
can tear easily, and it has
the tendency to pucker when
stitching seams.
As with all fickle fabrics,
a little experience and a
dash of trial-and-error will
have you working with this
fabric in no time at all.
And, if you're working with
a pre-constructed garment,
then these tips will have
you embroidering on
charmeuse like a pro, no
matter your sewing skill
level. |
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Charmeuse is
slippery, so hoop it with the stabilizer
(and use a temporary spray adhesive
between the fabric and stabilizer for
best results). |
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Because charmeuse is
slippery, it's important to
use cutaway stabilizer.
Don't use tear-away or
water-soluble stabilizers --
those won't work.
Spray the cutaway stabilizer
with a quick shot of
temporary spray adhesive. We
use KK100, a Gunold product.
Spray adhesive creates a
nice tight bond between the
fabric and stabilizer.
Hoop the fabric and
stabilizer together firmly.
Because charmeuse is
slippery, you might want to
use double-sided tape or
rubberized shelf liner in
the hoop as well. Anne
Campbell and Joan Warr show
you how to do that in the
Perfect Hooping article here. |
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When choosing a design,
consider how the fabric will
be draped, and how the
fabric will flow. A pillow cover,
for example, does not drape,
so a design of any
complexity will work well.
Garments, such as a dress, skirt, or blouse,
will flow and drape, as will
curtains. When working with
those items, choose light,
airy, and open designs for
the best results. |
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Charmeuse is
sturdy, so a wide variety of
designs will work very well on this
fabric. |
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To see how charmeuse holds
up with complex and
realistic designs, I
stitched this
Roses Blossoms design.
It has more than 47,000
stitches, and uses shading
and highlighting techniques
that results in thread
overlapping other stitches
in some sections. Those are
some of the qualities of a
"complex" design.
The charmeuse proved to be a
beautiful canvas for this
complex design. No
puckering, no gapping, no
dimpling or cupping.
Because this is a more solid
design, the fabric isn't
going to drape the best.
It'll work fine on the back
of a shirt (not the front),
or the bottom of a skirt or
dress. But eventually this
sample will end up as a
cushion cover or a chair
back, where draping isn't as
important or necessary as it
is in garments. |
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Even complex
and realistic designs can be
stitched onto charmeuse with excellent
results. |
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This sample features a
vintage Alstroemeria design.
The design is very simple
with large open areas, and
simple running stitches.
There is no shading or
highlighting, making this a
very simple design.
When draping is important,
choose simple designs like
the one shown here. In this
manner, the stitches form
and mold to the shape of the
fabric, allowing the fabric
to flow.
This can be used in skirts,
dresses, shirts, scarves,
curtains -- anywhere you
want to have an easy-breezy
feeling.
Before leaving the fabric
store with your charmeuse,
check the laundering
instructions on the bolt.
Generally polyester
charmeuse requires a machine
wash in cold water on a
delicate cycle, or a hand
wash. Lay it flat to dry.
For silk charmeuse, the
instructions will likely
advise dry cleaning or hand
washing on cold water. |
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When working
with an item where draping is important,
choose simple, airy, and open designs. |
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Stitching tips for charmeuse:
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Needle |
75/11
sharp needle; an embroidery needle
may also be used |
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Stabilizer |
Cutaway
(2.5 ounce) |
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Design
Choice |
Any, but
consider draping (choose open designs for better draping). |
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