While real leather lasts for decades, it has a hefty price tag, and can be difficult to clean and maintain.

Faux leather, costs about a third of true leather. It comes in a wider variety of colors and sheens, it's more versatile, and it's easier for cleaning and care. The fact that it's animal-friendly has appeal, too.

Leatherette is a natural or synthetic fabric base covered with a plastic or soft PVC layer. While it is easy to care for (it doesn't fade or crack), leatherette isn't porous . That means it doesn't breathe, so your skin won't either. If this material is used for clothing or car seats, you'll sweat. It's most often used for bound books and actually was used quite often in the construction of 20th century cameras.

The most commonly used and easily found faux leather is called Pleather. The word is actually a combination of the words 'leather' and 'plastic.'
 

As manufacturing techniques became more advanced, pleather actually started to look more and more like real leather. By the 1980s, pleather no longer resembled the  squeaky fakes of the previous decade. It was less expensive and showed support for animal rights.

Since pleather looks so closely like real leather these days, there are a couple of tips you can employ to tell the difference when you're at the fabric store (as if the price wouldn't be the first clue!). First, check if the material contains any elasticity. If it stretches, then it's pleather. Leather has no give to it.

Secondly, check the back of the fabric in question. Pleather often has a thin, fleece-like backing, while leather has a thick, suede-like backing.

I found I could use the same  techniques, stabilizer, and needle for all four types.

Pleather is a strong fabric that will support almost any weight or complexity of design. However, it is necessary to take into account draping. The higher the complexity of the design, the less graceful the draping of the fabric may become.

Once you have chosen your design, I would recommend using a 75/11 sharp sewing needle for embroidering. Steer clear of ballpoint needles that will puncture the material and leave visible holes.

For stabilizer, I used medium-weight (2 oz.) cutaway stabilizer, that I adhered to the pleather with a light mist of KK100 spray adhesive. Then, hoop the fabric and stabilizer together tightly.

Don't be hesitant to really secure your hoop. Pleather is resilient, and unlike leather, won't get hoop burn. While you may be tempted to give the pleather a little stretch or two after it's hooped, resist that urge. It will distort your design.

When you are finished embroidering, you may have a an outline where the hoop was, but no worries, the pleather will eventually regain its shape, or you can lightly iron it using the tips below.