Fabrics 101: Embroidering on Nylon

 

Fabrics 101: Embroidering on Nylon
 

Recently, while shopping at a local sporting goods store, I realized I was surrounded by items made several different types and weights of nylon. Windbreakers to my left, tents and sleeping bags to my right, and lawn flags and windsocks hanging above my head.
 

Since nylon fabrics are extremely strong, lightweight, and nonabsorbent, it is no surprise that many outdoor items are made from the smooth and sturdy material.

Currently the second most used synthetic fiber in the United States, nylon (a plastic) was invented in 1935 by Wallace Carothers, an employee of the Du Pont corporation. It was the first commercially successful polymer and the first synthetic fiber to be made entirely from coal, water and air. The nylon fibers were touted to be "as strong as steel, as fine as a spider's web," and so dawned the era of nylon hosiery, or "nylons."

Medium Cool Grey #1041 and Cool Grey #1118 were used to stitch out the Wolf Silhouette Scene design on this nylon jacket.


In 1942, nylon went to war in the form of parachutes and tents. A replacement for expensive Asian silk, nylon was also used for
tires, ropes, ponchos, and other military supplies. Although this created a shortage in the nylon stockings supply in the United States, it didn't stop American soldiers from presenting them to foreign women in an attempt to impress them!

Nylon comes in a variety of weights. Tough ballistic nylon is of a heavier weight than most manufacturing nylons. Originally created to be used as a flak jacket and protect WWII soldiers from flying debris and shrapnel, it did little to protect them from bullets. Ballistic nylon is now primarily used for cave packs, tool belts, police duty belts, motorcycle jackets, and skin-on-frame kayaks.

Cordura is another type of heavy-duty nylon known for being long lasting and resistant to abrasions, tears and scuffs. It is used in a variety of items from luggage and backpacks to boots, military apparel (such as tactical blade sheaths, ammunition pouches, etc.), and performance apparel.
 

Sport and ripstop nylon are more commonly found around the house than the previously mentioned versions. Easy-care sport nylon is a sturdy fabric that is perfect for outdoor items such as backpacks, tarps, outerwear, totes, outdoor flags, and banners. Last summer I made the breezy windsock featured to the left out of sport nylon (click here or on the picture for project instructions).

Ripstop is a lighter and silkier type of nylon that is woven with extra threads in a pattern to help prevent runs or tears. Wind-resistant (and if treated with a durable finish, water-repellant), ripstop nylon is used for sleeping bags and tents. It's also a great choice for light-weight jackets, ponchos, and wind pants.

A pretty windsock, made of hearty nylon, will
 perk up any patio.


When embroidering on nylon, I have found that applique designs work well on both ripstop and sport nylon. Since applique designs have fewer stitches than "regular" or stitch-filled designs, puckering is not an issue. The sturdier sport nylon is able to handle light to medium fill designs. If working with ripstop nylon, I recommend designs that have light fills.

Embroidering on nylon can be tricky, but I have some tips and techniques that should help you to achieve excellent results. Below are results from my tests with ripstop nylon, as well as tips for hooping, stabilizing, and embroidering.
 


I wanted to find which combination of fabric and stabilizer gave the best results.

For the first test, I hooped a piece of ripstop nylon with a piece of medium weight (2.5 oz.) cutaway stabilizer.


After embroidering the design, I examined the outcome. The results were not up to my standards. Do you see how there are puckers in the fabric? Nylon is such a slippery fabric -- it pulled away from the sides of the hoop when the hoop was moving around. The design that I'm working with is a light-and-breezy daisy, but even those light stitches are causing the fabric to pull out of the hoop.


Trying again, I used the same medium weight cutaway stabilizer. This time I had a few tricks up my sleeve and felt confident I would achieve better results.

First, I sprayed the stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive (I used Gunold KK100) and smoothed the ripstop nylon over it. The adhesive will prevent the fabric from shifting while the design sews.


Although the fabric now felt secure, another step will even further prevent shifting. I next added water-soluable Wonder Tape to the bottom sides of the inner hoop, but not to the corners. Now, the nylon will not pull away from the sides of the hoop. The tape will last through a few hoopings and can easily be washed away when you are finished.


I then hooped the fabric and stabilizer using a technique that I have found to work well - hoop the fabric somewhat loosely and then hand tighten the screw until the hoop is tight.


Finally, the last step that I took to secure the nylon is to add pieces of rubber shelf mat to the bottom sides of the inner hoop, on top of the Wonder Tape. This is a trick I learned from Anne Campbell and Joan Warr a few years ago.

I cut strips of the rubber mat about 1 1/2" wide and as long as the sides of the hoop. Then I aligned one of the long sides of the tape with the inner edge of the hoop and press in place. The corners of the hoop were left open.

 

Next, I tightly hooped the fabric and stabilizer together. The rubber mat strips gave a great hold, and prevented the fabric from pulling away from the sides of the hoop.


I stitched out the very same design, and as you can see, the results are fantastic! The nylon remained flat and did not pucker. And, all parts of the design are lined up perfectly. Any marks left on the hoop will disappear in a couple of hours or they can be ironed out using a low temperature setting and a pressing cloth.

Nylon is relatively easy to care for. I would recommend washing on the gentle cycle with warm water and a cool rinse. Using a fabric softener will reduce static problems. Tumble dry nylon at a low temperature setting and press at a cool temperature setting, or line dry.


Stitching tips for nylon:
 

Needle 75/11 sharp needle
Stabilizer Cutaway (2.5 ounce)
Design Choice Choose designs with light to medium complexity; applique is also a great choice.
   

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