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Fabrics 101: Embroidering on Nylon
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Fabrics 101: Embroidering on Nylon
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Recently, while shopping at a local sporting
goods store, I realized I was surrounded by items made several different types
and weights of nylon. Windbreakers to
my left, tents and sleeping bags to my right,
and lawn flags and windsocks hanging above my
head.
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Since nylon fabrics are extremely strong,
lightweight, and nonabsorbent, it is no surprise
that many outdoor items are made from the smooth
and sturdy
material.
Currently the
second most used synthetic fiber in the United
States, nylon (a plastic) was invented in 1935
by Wallace Carothers, an employee of the Du Pont
corporation.
It was the
first commercially successful polymer and the
first synthetic fiber to be made entirely from
coal, water and air.
The nylon fibers were touted to be
"as strong as steel, as fine as a spider's web,"
and so dawned the era of nylon hosiery, or
"nylons." |
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Medium Cool Grey #1041 and Cool Grey #1118 were
used to stitch out the
Wolf Silhouette Scene design on this nylon
jacket. |
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In 1942, nylon went to war in the form of
parachutes and tents. A replacement for
expensive Asian silk, nylon was also used for
tires, ropes, ponchos, and other
military supplies. Although this created a
shortage in the nylon stockings supply in the
United States, it didn't stop American soldiers
from presenting them to foreign women in an
attempt to impress them!
Nylon comes in a variety of weights. Tough
ballistic nylon is of a heavier weight than most
manufacturing nylons. Originally created to be
used as a flak jacket and protect WWII soldiers
from flying debris and shrapnel, it did little
to protect them from bullets. Ballistic nylon is
now primarily used for
cave packs, tool belts, police duty belts,
motorcycle jackets, and skin-on-frame kayaks.
Cordura is another type of heavy-duty nylon
known for being
long lasting and
resistant to abrasions, tears and scuffs. It is
used in a variety of items from
luggage and backpacks to boots, military apparel
(such as tactical blade sheaths, ammunition
pouches, etc.), and performance apparel.
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Sport and ripstop nylon are more commonly found
around the house than the previously mentioned
versions. Easy-care sport nylon is
a sturdy fabric that is perfect for outdoor
items such as backpacks, tarps, outerwear,
totes, outdoor flags, and banners. Last summer I
made the breezy windsock featured to the left
out of sport nylon (click
here or on the picture for
project instructions).
Ripstop is a lighter and silkier type of nylon
that is woven with extra threads in a pattern to
help prevent runs or tears.
Wind-resistant (and if treated with a durable
finish, water-repellant), ripstop nylon is used for
sleeping bags and tents. It's also a great choice
for light-weight jackets, ponchos, and wind
pants. |
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A
pretty
windsock, made of hearty nylon, will
perk up any patio. |
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When
embroidering on nylon, I have found that
applique designs work well on both ripstop and
sport nylon. Since applique designs have fewer
stitches than "regular" or stitch-filled designs, puckering is not an issue. The
sturdier sport nylon is able to handle light to
medium fill designs. If working with ripstop
nylon, I recommend designs that have light
fills.
Embroidering on
nylon can be tricky, but I have some tips and
techniques that should help you to achieve
excellent results. Below are results from my
tests with ripstop nylon, as well as tips for hooping,
stabilizing, and embroidering.
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I
wanted to find which combination of
fabric and stabilizer gave the best
results.
For
the first test, I hooped a piece of
ripstop nylon with a piece of medium weight (2.5
oz.) cutaway stabilizer. |
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After embroidering the design, I examined the
outcome. The results were not up to my
standards. Do you see how there are
puckers in the fabric? Nylon is such
a slippery fabric -- it pulled away
from the sides of the hoop when the
hoop was moving around. The design
that I'm working with is a
light-and-breezy daisy, but even
those light stitches are causing the
fabric to pull out of the hoop.
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Trying again, I used the same medium
weight cutaway stabilizer. This time I had a few
tricks up my sleeve and felt confident I would
achieve better results.
First, I sprayed the
stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive (I used
Gunold KK100) and smoothed the ripstop nylon
over it. The adhesive will prevent the fabric
from shifting while the design sews. |
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Although the fabric now felt secure, another
step will even further prevent shifting. I next
added water-soluable
Wonder Tape to the bottom sides of the inner
hoop, but not to the corners. Now, the nylon
will not pull away from the sides of the hoop.
The tape will last through a few hoopings and
can easily be washed away when you
are finished. |
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I
then hooped the fabric and stabilizer using a
technique that I have found to work well - hoop
the fabric somewhat loosely and then hand
tighten the screw until the hoop is tight. |
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Finally, the last step that I took to
secure the nylon is to add pieces of rubber
shelf mat to the bottom sides of the inner hoop,
on top of the Wonder Tape. This is a trick I
learned from
Anne Campbell and Joan Warr a
few years ago.
I cut
strips of the rubber mat about 1 1/2" wide and
as long as the sides of the hoop. Then I aligned one of
the long sides of the tape with the inner edge
of the hoop and press in place. The corners of
the hoop were left open. |
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Next, I tightly hooped the fabric and stabilizer
together. The rubber mat strips gave a great
hold, and prevented the fabric from
pulling away from the sides of the hoop.
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I
stitched out the very same design, and as you
can see, the results are fantastic! The nylon
remained flat and did not pucker. And, all parts
of the design are lined up perfectly. Any marks
left on the hoop will disappear in a couple of
hours or they can be ironed out using a low
temperature setting and a pressing cloth. |
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Nylon is relatively
easy to care for. I would recommend washing on
the gentle cycle with warm water and a cool
rinse. Using a fabric softener will reduce
static problems. Tumble dry nylon at a low temperature setting and press
at a cool temperature setting, or line dry. |
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Stitching tips for nylon:
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Needle |
75/11
sharp needle |
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Stabilizer |
Cutaway
(2.5 ounce) |
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Design
Choice |
Choose
designs with light to medium complexity; applique is also a great
choice. |
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