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Know Your Needle
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Know Your
Needle
Kenny pinpoints the essentials from
needle selection to needle anatomy.
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Over
the years, I've learned that needle choice is an
integral part of the embroidering process. By
pairing the correct needle with a specific
thread or fabric, an embroidery design will run
smoother and look crisper and cleaner. Plus,
smart needle choice helps eliminate thread
breaks.
Needle choice can easily be overwhelming. There are
many different types and sizes of needles, and they all
work differently with specific threads and
fabrics. It's helpful for me to take into
consideration the different parts of a needle,
and how each part works, as I decide which
needle to use for a specific project. This guide
covers the needle's anatomy, characteristics of
different needles and other factors I find
useful when it comes to knowing my needle.
Experimentation is a great way to find out what
works best. Try different techniques and
options until you are satisfied. Much of the
information and many of the suggestions below
come from my experience, and what has worked
best for me. But, it's always best to
stick with what works best for you and your
machine.
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Shank
The shank is the thick, upper part of the needle
that is inserted into the machine. Needles for
embroidery machines have a flat side and a round
side so that they fit properly into the machine.
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Machine embroidery
needles have a
flat side and a round side. |
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Point
The point is the first part of the needle to
make contact with the fabric. It's responsible
for how the needle penetrates the fabric. For
example, a larger needle will leave a larger
hole.
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The point makes
first contact with the fabric. |
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Shaft
The shaft is the portion of the needle from
the bottom of the shank to the point. It
encompasses all of the rest of the parts of the
needle. |
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The shaft
encompasses the groove, scarf, eye and point of
the needle. |
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Eye
Thread is channeled through the needle in the
eye. It carries the top thread into the bobbin
casing, and then forms a stitch. The size of the
eye varies with the type and size of the needle. |
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Thread goes through
the eye of the needle. |
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Groove
The groove of the
needle always faces to the front and leads into
the eye.
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The groove always
faces to the front. |
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Scarf
The scarf is an indentation on the backside of
the needle, just above the eye. It allows the
hook of the bobbin casing to get close enough to
the eye of the needle to catch the thread and
form a stitch. |
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The scarf is on the
backside of the needle. |
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There are many different types of needles on the
market, as well as specialty needles. Many
dealers, instructors and fellow embroiderers
might suggest a variety of
recommendations. I have not found it necessary
to use many different needles for different
projects (I've had great luck using a size 11
sharp for almost everything), but it may be helpful for you
to try different types and sizes of needles. In my
experience, I'd ultimately recommend sticking
with what works best for you and your machine.
Sharp Needle
These needles have a
sharp point that penetrates most fabrics. Sharp
needles work well with woven and knit fabrics,
and work well penetrating heavier fabrics like
denim and canvas. I like this needle the best
because the small point leaves a very small
perforation in the fabric, and that makes my
embroidery look crisp and clean, well-defined.
I'm often asked about my needle choice. I've
always used a size 75/11 sharp needle. The eye
size is perfect for 40 weight rayon or polyester
embroidery thread. And I've embroidered on
everything from fleece to cardstock to lace
with a size 75/11 sharp needle, and had great success.
Universal Needle
Similar to sharp needles, universal needles
are sharp enough to penetrate most fabrics, and
work well with knit and woven fabric. The tips
are slightly rounded and tapered so that it
slips through the weave of the fabric like a
ball point needle, rather than cutting through
the fibers as a sharp needle does.
Ball Point Needle
These needles have a rounded point, which is
designed to slip in between the weave of the
fabric, rather than penetrate through it. Ball
point needles are designed to be used with knits
like T-shirts and sweatshirts. A sharp or
universal needle could possibly cause a slight
tear or run in the fabric because of the sharp
point cutting through the fibers.
You might find that
some experienced embroiderers recommend a ball
point needle for knits. However, I've always
used a sharp needle on knits, and never had any
problems. I've experimented with both ball point and sharp
needles on knits, and I got the same results
with both needles. If you ever experience any
slight tears, runs or "fuzziness" around a
design and are using a sharp, universal, or
embroidery needle, then try changing to a ball point needle.
Embroidery Needle
These needles are designed specifically for
machine embroidery use, and for use with rayon
and polyester embroidery threads. Embroidery
needles work well with all fabrics. The eye of
these needles is larger and longer than
universal needles. And embroidery needles have a
special, deep scarf on the front, plus a rounded
point, which protects the thread from shredding
and breaking.
While embroidery needles work well on all
fabrics, I still recommend a sharp needle when
embroidering directly onto water-soluble
stabilizer. If you use an embroidery needle when
making freestanding lace, that rounded point may
stretch the water-soluble stabilizer, whereas a
sharp needle will perforate neatly through it. |
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Leather Needle
The leather needle is designed to be used with
leather and suede. It has a wedged point that
allows the needle to better penetrate the
thickness of suede and leather and leave a
smaller perforation.
In my experience,
a size 80/12 leather needle works the best.
Unlike fabric, leather doesn't have a weave. It
needs special attention and this essential
needle. |
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Thick Thread Needle
Needles for thick
thread have extra large eyes to accommodate the
thread size. When working with a thick thread,
like a 12 weight wool, use a size 110/18
universal needle. |
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Metallic Needle
Metallic needles are designed to be used
specifically with metallic thread. These needles
have a larger eye, which allows the thread to
pass through with ease.
I've also used
75/11 sharp needles with metallic thread and
have had excellent results.
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Needle Care
There is a variety of opinions on often to
change a needle. In my experience, as long as
the needle is performing properly, there is no
need to change it. However, if you start to
notice rough stitching or thread breaks, change
the needle immediately. As an estimate, I can
suggest changing your needle every 50,000 to
60,000 stitches to keep it sharp and sewing as
crisp as possible. You may need to change the
needle more or less often depending on the
type of fabric you use often (thicker, denser
fabrics may dull the needle faster, requiring
you to change the needle more frequently). |
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75/11 Sharp Needle |
Ball Point Needle |
Universal Needle |
Embroidery Needle |
80/12 Leather Needle |
Metallic Thread Needle |
110/18 Universal Needle |
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Special Materials |
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Freestanding lace on water-soluble
stabilizer (WSS) |
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Cardstock |
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Cotton fabrics |
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Quilter's Cotton |
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Canvas |
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Corduroy |
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Denim |
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Drill |
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Duck |
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Flannel |
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Gauze |
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Gingham |
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Muslin |
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Organdy |
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Percale |
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Pique (golf shirt) |
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Poplin |
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Sateen |
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Seersucker |
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Sweater (light-weight) |
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Sweater (heavy-weight) |
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Sweatshirt |
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T-shirt (jersey knit) |
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Terrycloth |
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Velveteen |
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Wool fabrics (Alpaca, Mohair, Angora,
Camel, Cashmere, Vicuna) |
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Broadcloth |
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Felt |
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Flannel |
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Gabardine |
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Herringbone |
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Jersey |
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Merino |
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Oatmeal |
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Sharkskin |
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Tweed |
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Silk fabrics (strongest natural fiber,
oldest textile, fibers harvested from
cocoon of silkworm) |
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Brocade |
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Chiffon |
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Dupioni |
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Organza |
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Broadcloth |
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Linen |
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Satin |
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Linen fabrics (from flax, strong, 2-3
times the strength of cotton, sturdy,
smooth, lint-free) |
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Butcher�s Linen |
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Damask |
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Venise |
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Manufactured/ Synthetic (man-made)
fabrics |
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Acetate |
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Acrylic |
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Polar Fleece |
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Nylon |
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Polyester |
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Rayon |
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Spandex |
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Other materials |
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Leather |
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Suede |
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Velvet |
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Thread types |
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12 weight wool |
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40 weight rayon |
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40 weight polyester |
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50 weight cotton |
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Metallic |
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Kenny is a
master digitizer and Vice President of
Production at Embroidery Library, Inc. He has
more than twelve years of experience as an artist,
digitizer, and embroiderer.
Ask Kenny! Send your questions to
stitch@emblibrary.com. |
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