In-the-Hoop Recipe for Success

In-the-Hoop Recipe for Success
 
In-the-hoop designs are a fun way to take your embroidery to the next level. You can embroider, assemble, and sew a project completely in the hoop, all with the ease and precision of machine embroidery! Each of our in-the-hoop designs (pot holders, door hangers, refrigerator magnets, tissue holders, ornaments, and lots more) comes with its own instructions. Here, you'll find some general tips to help your in-the-hoop projects reach their stunning potential.


Just like a recipe in the kitchen, your in-the-hoop "recipe for success" starts with quality ingredients. For comparison's sake, we test-sewed the same in-the-hoop savory potholder twice: once doing everything wrong that we could, then again using our recipe for success. Read on to see the results.
 



Needle
 

This one's short but sweet: use a 75/11 sharp sewing needle. In this picture, you can see the difference between the two needles we used for our tests: the larger needle on the left is a 110/18 universal needle, and on the right is the 75/11 sharp. A sharp needle penetrates the fabric, while a universal needle has a tip that's slightly rounded, so it slips through the weave of the fabric like a ball point needle.

To show the difference in the perforations each needle leaves behind, we "stitched" a dieline on stabilizer, without any thread. Notice that the holes on the left are much larger than the holes on the right.


In the examples below, you can see the noticeable difference in the results: the universal needle leaves big holes behind and lets the embroidery thread pull at the fabric, while the sharp needle leaves the fabric more intact.

To learn more about needle types and features, see this article called "Know Your Needle."
 



Stabilizer

The tearaway stabilizer you choose can have a big effect on your finished in-the-hoop project. For our first example we used Inspira medium-weight tearaway, and for the second we used Terradon Clean Tear.

Take a close look at these tearaway stabilizers before we embroider anything on them. The one on the left has larger fibers in a more visible pattern. The one on the right has a somewhat finer texture. If you could feel these samples, the one on the right would be slightly more flexible than the one on the left.

When you tear away the stabilizer at the end of an in-the-hoop project, you'll sometimes notice little bits of stabilizer left behind. Everyone has a different word for them -- fuzzies, pokies, wispies -- you know what I mean. The amount and texture of the fuzzies will vary depending on which kind of stabilizer you use.

Here are the results from our tests:

Using tweezers is a good way to remove these fuzzies -- with scissors, there's a danger of cutting into the satin stitch border. The fewer fuzzies you have in the first place, the easier this will be.

Another handy technique is to fold the stabilizer back and forth along the satin stitch edge before tearing it away. Just like when you crease a piece of a paper in order to tear it cleanly, folding the stabilizer will help weaken the fibers along the edge of your in-the-hoop project, leaving a cleaner edge.

We've also tested other tearaway stabilizers to see what "fuzzies" they left behind. Here's what we found out:

This is a close up view of the HTCW brand tear away stabilizer (to find out more information about this brand, go to www.Google.com and search for HTCW stabilizer). In my opinion, this tear away had the neatest finish of all the four that we tested. The stabilizer has a nice mesh that when torn away, leaves very little behind.

The image to the right uses tear-away stabilizer called Stiffy by Sulky. It feels less like stabilizer, and more like a sheet of thick paper, but it worked just great.

This stabilizer also gives a clean finish. The "fuzzies" that are left behind are chunkier, easy to grab and remove with a pair of scissors. Bending and tearing also gave a nicer finish.

Next, we tested Tear Easy by Sulky. The feeling of the stabilizer was very different than the Stiffy line. Great to work with, but does leave a few remaining pieces behind.

Finally, the tear away stabilizer from America Sews (use Google.com to find resources), which left the most pieces of tear away behind. It's a great product, and supported the fabric well while embroidering. But of the four that we tested, this brand left the most pokies behind.


Some embroiderers use water-soluble stabilizer instead of tearaway; you may want to give it a try and see if it works for you. Janette graciously shared her experience with this method:
 

I have just tried using a double layer of water soluble Vilene to make some Candy Cane holders and am really pleased with the results so far. Maybe a single layer would work just as well but I wanted to be sure that the Vilene would not disintegrate before I was finished sewing. It held up beautifully. I used normal cutaway on the appliqu� pieces and had no problem with the spray-on adhesive melting the Vilene as I thought it might.

Of course, when the embroidery was complete it didn�t "pop out" of the hoop but had to be trimmed-but not too close to the stitching. I removed the excess Vilene by using a thick paintbrush dipped in hot water to dissolve it, and this resulted in no pokey bits at all.  The project edges dried up nicely but this may be a problem on some fabrics. I will keep experimenting.

Above: In-the-hoop gingerbread man candy cane holder stitched with tearaway stabilizer (left) and water-soluble stabilizer (right)

 



Hooping
 

Make sure to hoop your stabilizer tightly and evenly. For an in-the-hoop project, there are a lot of different elements that need to line up precisely - dielines, tack downs, satin stitch borders, and decorative elements. Very stiff stabilizers can be harder to hoop than more flexible ones. Once you've hooped your stabilizer, test to make sure the inner hoop won't pop out, and that it's taut all the way around. For more general hooping tips, see this article.

 

If you've tried all the usual tricks and still have trouble hooping a stabilizer tightly, you can try applying Wonder Tape to the hoop. This double-sided, water-soluble tape is available at craft stores and will help the hoop grip the stabilizer. Apply it to the underside of the inner hoop. Make sure to cover the corners -- that's where you're hooped stabilizer is most likely to get loose. The tape should last through a few hoopings; when you're done, you can either peel the tape off or remove it with hot water.


We hooped our first project very loosely. The dielines, which should have been covered by the satin stitch border, showed in places.

And in one spot, even though we'd lined up the fabric precisely with the dieline, the satin stitch border didn't cover the edge of the fabric at all. On the tightly hooped project, the satin stitch border covered the fabric and dielines all the way around.

And there you have it! Cut and apply your fabric carefully, stitch with a 75/11 sharp sewing needle, select a good quality tearaway stabilizer, and hoop tightly -- that's your in-the-hoop recipe for success.
 


Kenny is a master digitizer and Vice President of Production at Embroidery Library, Inc.

Ask Kenny! Send your questions to stitch@emblibrary.com.

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