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In-the-Hoop Coin Purse
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In-the-Hoop Coin Purse |
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Keep bills and coins in
a
pocket-sized purse, adorned with bright summertime designs.
A layer of polyester batting
adds a cozy touch to this coin purse, made entirely in the hoop! |
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Supplies needed:
**5" x 8" low-loft polyester
batting
**2 quarter flats (18" x 22" each)
**1" sticky-back Velcro
**Spray adhesive
**Medium weight tear-away
stabilizer
Design Used:
**In-the-Hoop
Coin Purses |
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When you
download an in-the-hoop coin purse design, you'll find three
files. One is marked with "_DLFront" and one is marked with
"_DLBack." These two files are the dielines (DL stands for
dieline).
The DL files (dieline files) are outlines, and you'll use
these files to make the front and back pieces for the case.
The third file begins with the letter "X" followed by 4
numbers -- that is the "full design," the in-the-hoop
sunglasses case design.
The instructions below will refer to "front dieline" and
"back dieline," as well as "full design."
First prepare the front and back sides of the coin purse
using the dielines. If you have embroidery software, open
the dieline files and print them. If you don't have
embroidery software, then hoop a piece of paper, and
embroider the dielines.
The printouts or sewouts of the dielines are "templates"
that will be used to prepare the fabric and batting pieces. |
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To make the front piece
of the coin purse, cut two pieces of fabric and one piece of batting
a bit larger than the front dieline.
For this example, the blue fabric is the front/outer fabric, and the
orange fabric is the back/inner fabric. |
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Spray the wrong side of the outer fabric
with adhesive. |
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Smooth the batting onto the fabric. |
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Spray the batting with adhesive. |
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Smooth the wrong side of the
inner fabric onto the batting. |
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Spray the wrong side of
the paper template with adhesive. |
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Smooth the paper
template onto the right side of the inner fabric. |
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Cut all four layers -- paper
template, inner fabric, batting, and outer fabric -- along
the template's lines. |
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Peel the paper template
away, and set aside. This is the front piece of the coin purse. |
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Next, make the back piece. The front
piece was a "fabric and batting sandwich." The back piece will
be a "fabric
and batting taco" with a folded edge.
Cut a piece of batting a bit larger than the back piece template. |
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The folded side of the
"taco" will need a nice, straight edge. Use a straight edge or ruler
and mark a line along one long edge. |
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Fold the inner fabric
around the batting, and make sure that the fabric covers the batting
completely. |
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Then, unfold the fabric
and cut the fabric around the batting shape. Cut along the bottom
and up the side all the way to the edge of the fabric. |
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Spray the wrong side of
the fabric with adhesive. |
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Place the batting on the
fabric with the straight side that you cut in the middle, and smooth
it over the fabric. |
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Fold the other side of
the fabric over the batting, and smooth into place. |
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Cut the back piece
dieline template along the top side (note: the top side has smaller
corners). |
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Spray the wrong side of
the template with adhesive. |
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Place the cut edge of
the template along the folded edge of the fabric and batting "taco." |
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Trim the shape around
three sides -- but not the folded side. |
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Remove the paper
template and set this back piece aside.
Now that the front and back pieces of the coin purse are assembled,
it's time to embroider the "full" embroidery file. |
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Hoop a piece of
tear-away stabilizer. |
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Several of the color
stops will sew "seams." For these stops, it's best to wind a bobbin
with the same thread that you're using in the needle.
The color change sheet shows these stops with the word "matching
bobbin." When you see those words on the color change sheet, use a
bobbin thread that matches the top thread. |
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Begin embroidering the
full design.
The first part of the design to sew (color change 1) is a dieline.
This is a running stitch outline which marks placement for the front
piece of the coin purse. |
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Spray a small amount of
adhesive in the four corners of the inner side of the front piece. |
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Place the piece on the
tear-away stabilizer, in the dieline. |
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The next part of the
design to sew (color change two) is a tack-down stitch. This is a
running stitch which holds the front piece to the stabilizer, as
well as stitches the fabric and batting sandwich together.
For this step, use the same bobbin thread as top thread. |
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The next part of the
design to sew (color change 3) is the satin stitch border on the
outer flap. For this step, too, match the bobbin thread to the
needle thread. |
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After the outer flap
satin stitch has sewn, switch back to regular bobbin thread.
The next steps (color changes 4, etc.) are the design elements of
the coin purse. |
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On the color change
sheet you'll see a note that says "back piece dieline." Right after
this step sews, switch back to the bobbin thread that matches the
fabric color.
Give all four corners of one side of the back piece a quick shot of
spray adhesive. |
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Place the back piece,
folded side facing the flap, inside the dieline.
The next part of the design to sew is the "finishing seam" which
attaches the back piece to the front piece. |
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Remove the stabilizer
from the hoop, and gently tear the excess away. |
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Turn the purse right
side out. |
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Cut two 1/2" pieces of
the hook and loop sides of the sticky-back Velcro. |
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Place the loop sides of
the Velcro on the inside of the flap, about 1/2" from the outside
edges. Place a ruler along the side of the loop pieces and align the
hook side pieces of the Velcro on the outside of the back piece.
Let the Velcro sit about 24 hours for the adhesive to set
completely. |
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Size: 3.86 x 3.87 (98.0 x 98.3 mm)
Designs in Pack: 13
Price: $10.97
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