|
Sewing Tote~Let's
get organized
|
 |
|
Sewists, embroiderers, and quilters
love to bring their hobbies with them to classes,
quilting bees, sewing circles, and clubs. But, how many times
do we go to the bottom of a tote bag to retrieve a ruler
or thimble and end up being stuck by a pin or needle?
Here's the answer! No more fumbling to find your favorite
scissors. All your supplies are at your fingertips
in this handy tote! Each item is in view or in a
pocket for easy access, and there is a generous main
compartment for fabric and batting. When you
finish your outing, just zip up the flap, and you're ready to go! |
|
 |
|
Supplies Needed:
-
One yard each of the outer (blue)
and lining (pink) fabrics
-
1/2
yard of the pocket (purple) fabric
-
Two 14 inch separating
zippers
-
1 1/4
yards of one inch wide nylon webbing (strapping)
-
2 yards of 3/8 inch
wide elastic
-
1 1/4
yard of fusible webbing
-
1 1/4
yard of
semi-rigid interfacing (like Timex or Peltex)
Embroidery Designs from
Embroidery Library
|
|
 |
|
On the blue fabric, mark
one rectangle that measures 17" wide by 15 1/2
inches tall.
On the purple fabric, mark
one rectangle that is 17 inches wide by 13 inches tall, and mark
another rectangle that is 17 inches wide by 7 inches tall. |
|
|
In the blue rectangle, center the
feature design with the border design below it, and
sew it out on the fabric.
In
the larger purple rectangle, sew out the checkbook design in
the lower right quadrant of the rectangle. (Tip: Fold the rectangle in
quarters, and sew the design centered in the lower right quarter of
the rectangle.) The design should be centered in what will
become the pattern pocket.
In the smaller purple rectangle,
embroider the design so that the design is in the lower left corner
of the rectangle. Make sure to leave a half inch
seam allowance.
|
 |
|
From the pocket fabric, cut out the 2
embroidered rectangles you marked.
From the
lining fabric, cut out 3 rectangles that are 17 inches wide by
15 1/2 inches tall, and cut
out one rectangle that is 44 inches wide by 6 inches tall.
From the outer fabric,
cut out the embroidered rectangle you marked and one more rectangle
that is 17 inches by 15 1/2 inches. Also cut out
one rectangle that is 44 inches wide by
6 inches tall. |
|
 |
|
Assembling the Organizer
Fold the pocket rectangles in half by the
width, wrong sides together. The top edge will now
be the fold of the fabric. |
|
 |
|
Lay out one lining rectangle with the
right side up. Lay the larger pocket piece along
the bottom edge of the lining piece, matching the raw
edges.
Lay the smaller pocket
upside down across the lining piece, with the raw edges
toward the top. The smaller pocket should overlap
the larger pocket by an inch.
Use a half inch
seam allowance to stitch the smaller pocket to the
lining. Flip the smaller pocket up into place so that
the top of the pocket is parallel with the top edge of
the lining. |
|
 |
|
Stitch the larger and
smaller pockets into place along the seam allowances at
the outer edges of the lining piece.
Mark a line across the
lining that is 1 3/4 inches
up from the top of the small pocket.
Mark pocket dividing
lines for each row of pockets as desired. |
|
 |
|
Use a narrow satin stitch to stitch
the pocket dividers. |
|
 |
|
From the fusible webbing and the
interfacing, cut out 3 rectangles that are 14 1/2 inches
tall by 16 inches wide. Fuse the webbing to one side of
each interfacing rectangle. |
|
 |
|
On the back of the assembled lining
piece, center the interfacing rectangle with the fusible
webbing
toward the wrong side of the lining piece. Fuse
the interfacing to the lining piece. |
|
 |
|
Use a bar tack stitch to secure
elastic every 1 1/2 inches
along the upper marked line. You
will be sewing through the interfacing too. Leave a
little slack between the bar tacks, so that it is easy
to insert spools of thread. |
|
 |
|
In this illustration, the row of elastic holders is finished.
|
|
 |
|
Assembling the Flap
On the back of another lining piece,
center the interfacing rectangle with the fusible
webbing toward the wrong side of the lining piece. Fuse
the interfacing to the lining piece. |
|
 |
|
Turn the fused piece over, and mark 2
vertical lines. One should be 5 inches from the right
side and the other should be 5 inches from the left side. |
|
 |
|
As you did with the other elastic
holders, use a bar tack stitch to secure elastic every
2 1/2 inches
along the marked lines
|
|
 |
|
Place the assembled lining piece on
top of the embroidered blue outer piece, with right
sides together and meeting the top edges. Use a
half inch seam allowance to stitch the pieces
together at the top. |
|
 |
|
Lay out the joined pieces with the
right side up.
Remove the zippers from their
packaging and place each zipper face down 1/2 inch from the edge
and bottom on each side of the blue outer piece.
The separating end should be to the bottom of the outer
piece.
Edge stitch each zipper to the outer
fabric. |
|
 |
|
Flip the zippers so that the seam
allowances are to the wrong side of the outer fabric.
Fold the lining piece over the wrong side of the outer
fabric. The zippers should be sticking out from
each side.
Tuck the top ends of the zippers in
between the outer and lining fabric pieces. On the
lining piece, fold each side seam allowance to the
inside, and topstitch the lining piece to the outer
piece along the stitched edge of the zipper. This
will cleanly finish the sides.
|
|
 |
|
Assembling the bag
Now take your other assembled lining
piece, and one more rectangle of lining. Put the
pieces right sides together, and use a 1/2 inch
seam allowance to stitch them together at the top.
Lay the pieces out as
shown.
|
|
|
Unzip the
zippers, separating them. Lay each zipper 1/2 inch from one
side and bottom of the plain lining piece. Make sure that the zipper
pieces are on the same side as their mate. Assemble the lining
pieces together in the same manner as the flap.
|
 |
|
Here is the assembled bag side. You can see the zippers sticking out from the sides. |
|
 |
|
Zip the flap to the bag side.
Join the bottom edges by stitching all
the layers together 1/2 inch
from the bottom raw edges. |
|
 |
|
Create another side for the bag by
placing the remaining large rectangles right sides
together, and stitching a seam along one long side. Fuse the remaining interfacing piece to the lining part
of the side and fold the outer fabric over the
interfacing. |
|
 |
|
Place the last 2 long rectangles
wrong sides together.
Mating the outer fabric sides, use a
1/2 inch
seam allowance to stitch the side/bottom piece around
the sides and bottom of the plain bag side. Finish or
encase the seam allowances.
On the long unfinished
edge of the side/bottom pieces, fold over 1/2 inch to the
lining side, and press to crease. Hem or
encase the short ends. |
|
 |
|
Meet the folded edges of the side/bottom piece to the plain side of
the assembled bag side. Pin or baste into place. Stitch
the bag body into place all the way around along the folded edge of
the side/bottom piece.
|
 |
|
Cut the strapping in half, and stitch
the ends centered 4 1/2 inches
apart on the plain side and the flap. |
|
 |
|
You'll find that this bag will hold
just about any tool or supply that can come out of your sewing
room. And, when your sewing friends see it, they are sure
to want one too! |
|
|
Click
here for a printable version of these project
instructions.
You'll need to have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on
your computer. If you don't have it, you can download a
free copy by clicking on the icon below.
|